kopapa, london


average, on the side of mediocre, fusion-ish in covent garden. I came to kopapa full of expectations for a good and proper brunch – by which I mean sweet, rich, skilful; and an improvement over my usual breakfast of porridge with peanut butter and raisins.

the menu sounded good enough, and clearly had someone skilful writing for it – I hope very much that they truly believed that’s what they were serving and failed, instead of them trying to make what was really rather unspecial sound romantically extraordinary.

the saving grace at this breakfast was the dish of poached eggs in yogurt and chilli oil. it is an unfamiliar pairing to me and I wasn’t sure how it would fare, but was unique and interesting enough. though I did think that it would have been better warmer than it was – that might possibly make the yogurt split.

my kopapa granola bowl was a bowl of toasted granola with bits of cut-up dried fruit and a spoonful of rich yogurt drizzled with honey – nothing special and I really would rather have been home with a bowl of jordan’s and cold milk. I know it’s just granola, but I’ve ordered it enough in restaurants to know that it can be much better than this.

the french toast that we ordered to share was terrible. it was two slices of dry fried bread with barely any syrup – in fact the thin drizzle around the plate, as little as it was, actually helped (really tells you how much syrup we got), with a spoonful of the same yogurt and some lightly fried bacon on top. in the menu it was described beautifully, and I wish I had taken note of the description now because you can then understand what a let-down this was. you order french toast for decadence and richness, not so that you wished instead that you had at least some toast which is meant to be dry.

at the table across from us, the diners there had a complain about the french toast and seemed to receive some jam for their efforts. I couldn’t be bothered, and I won’t be back here again. not for food anyway, though it is a quiet enough place (at a weekday brunch at least) to have a coffee and a chat with someone.

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