is that a little macabre? last post from the trip!
and to finish with possibly the best duck I’ve had in a while – and almost definitely the best thing I’ve eaten in yunnan – then well, it’s a good wrap-up.
but first, a meal at the 1910 la gare du sud, a chinese restaurant set in what looks like a french garden and fronted by what appears to be the arch of a french train station. a favorite of expats and tripadvisor, we came here with pretty elevated expectations – and it was pretty average-going.
the food was edible without being spectacular, and I think it might really be a regional quirk (or my quirk against the region’s cuisine, if you will).
but this plate of blistered, slightly charred, softened peppers were surprisingly delicious – with a flavor rather akin to that of shishito peppers, they were well-seasoned and very nice. just a little less oil and fewer seeds, and it would have been perfect.
we were less enamoured of the mapo tofu, which had a strong whiff of gameyness (maybe it’s the meat?) and a heavy hand on some spice (cumin, I think) that rather deviated from the usual flavor – and not necessarily in a good way. the tofu is pretty firm here too, which rather undermines the soft silkiness you’d expect (and desire).
the squid and veg dish was much better though – tossed in savory sauce and served atop a fried noodle basket, this one was easily finishable.
but the most utterly best thing, was this cantonese-style (which may explain my liking) roasted duck that we bought from a hole-in-the-wall counter that we passed by just an hour before we were to leave. the queues were snaking, the ducks were limited to one a person (which indicates exclusivity and quality, I’m sure you’ll agree), and each duck was priced at the how-is-it-possible amount of SGD$4.
there’s no eating space, so we grabbed it back in the paper bag, and ripped it apart in the hotel room. crisp skin, moist meat, and no gameyness.
a truly satisfying finish to a trip.
just in case:
- 1910 la gare du sud: 昆明1910火车南站餐厅 at 8 Houxin Jie, Kunming (昆明后新街8号), tel (0871) 63169486
more in this series of series-es:
- kunming city, china
- kunming outskirts, china
- kunming to dali, china
- lijiang sights, china
- lijiang eats, china
- lijiang to shangri-la, china
- shangri-la, china
- kunming eats, china (you’re here!)
p.s. that’s it, folks!
$4 a wonderful duck. HOW IS IT POSSIBLE :D
I KNOW RIGHT. AND IT WAS DELICIOUS AND PRESSURE-COOKED IN A GIANT OVEN, which I thought would have made it more expensive..
OMG YOU’RE SO RIGHT.
If you’re ever in Beijing, ask around for Dongpo Toasted Duck. Beijing Duck is already the bomb but toasted duck is even better.
That IS a little macabre. If you squint a little it looks like a roasted rabbit eating its own paw. But maybe that’s just me.
nice and comforting meals…
i love that crispy roasted duck, definitely yummywholesome!!!
trust me, it hell lotta more easy to eat than made, blowing the duck skin is the only fun parts of making peking duck
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