good flavors of the rich and heavy variety at this restaurant along ann siang hill – it’s a trendy place run by young hipster-types, with a clientele that suits the dark decor.
this was shot AGES ago – so I apologise for the photos, but how else would I tell you about this place?
the decor is dark, and the tables are small. it’s not really a place for groups, unless you fancy congregating al fresco, and it might do as a dinner date if you’re a yuppie and want something a little more casual than your typical european affair.
the menu is heavy on meat dishes, and heavy ingredients like goose liver and bone marrow – both of which set the hearts of their target demographic aflutter but are a little rich for this old-fashioned soul of mine.
we started with a southern tartare of chopped raw beef with a quail egg atop. well-seasoned, but I think more melba toast on the side would help offset the meatiness.
the second appetizer of meat butter was a dish of soft marrow served in-bone, with teriyaki flavors and bonito flakes on the top slowly melting. served with baguette slices, this isn’t for the faint-hearted. rich, oily, but with good flavors, it’s really good if you enjoy heavy flavors.
I did think the mains were well-executed though, like the steak and radish which had pink-seared short rib with more of those umami bonito flakes and a dish of bovril-flavored sauce on the side. the deep-fried radish sticks were far too greasy and heavy though – I would have preferred a fresh salad or crisp greens.
the duck stack was perhaps even better, with tender confit duck slices atop a light sauce and honshimeiji mushrooms. but there was foie gras even in this dish, for even more richness.
thankfully though, they had a side dish of blistered sprouts and peppers, topped with toasted rice crispies that would sog throughout the meal.
a friend once told me that the use of truffle was a cheat, because it makes everything taste good. this place really reminded me of that – there’s a heavy reliance of trendy, rich ingredients here, which while well-prepared, overshadows the expertise of the kitchen. there needs to be a better balance of flavors, more lightness to better bring out the rich.
otherwise, a good place for a young date, and a competent kitchen.
51 Duxton Road
tel +65 6223 3784
$$.5: 40-60 a person